원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall (just)
C2 in West Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

Went to C3 on 7th for summit bid on 9th but when all 6 members woke up at 8 am winds screaming and saw 30 people coming up the face; decided weather not good enough, didn't want to get caught up in crowd, not good for filming in wind shaking pod; just wasn't the time to go up with weather - not true sudden storm on 10th afternoon; each day pattern was fog on Col in late afternoon and fierce winds blew up in mid-morning from 7th. So down to C2 on 8th. Viesturs, Schauer and Breashears up to body of Taiwanese who died on ropes between C2 and C3 at about 3:00 pm on 9th and immediately they went up bring his body down to C2. 11th when realized disaster had struck above and at Col, so these 3 men and Gustafsson and Spanish woman up to C3 and Schauer and Viesturs up higher and met Athans and Burleson coming down with Weathers and took over lowering and escorting Weathers to C3 (Spanish had been making drinks for all people coming down face). Rested at BC and started about 17th and waited at C2 for good weather report and 22nd up to Col by all six climbing members and 9 Sherpas. 23rd Tsuzuki told to stay at col (not strong -for safety) and 5 members and 7 Sherpas was up for summit, 2 Sherpas designate to carry oxygen to 27,500 and return to Col to be in support at Col if needed. Viesturs arrived at top 11:00 am, Breashears 11:20 am and rest between 11:20 and 12:00 noon - returned to C4 to sleep: Viesturs 2:30 pm and rest by 4:00 pm. 24th to C2, 26th BC.

Summit Sherpas:
1) Lhakpa Dorje, 30, Kurima, Solu, - Everest 1 time before on north side with Taiwanese in 95 [Taiwanese called him only Lhakpa, said he was 26 and from Thami]
2) Zangbu/Jangbu - Everest 14/5/95 only 8000m
3) Muktu Lhakpa, 23 - Tashigaon in Makalu areas - no 8000m before
4) Thilen, 28 years old

Breashears 4th June: Hall and Fischer not dressed really warmly - over confident of routine ascent. Fischer's guide Boukreev climbed without oxygen which guide should not do to be able to look after clients, not just himself - but Boukreev did go out on Col and help find and get to C4 2-3 lost climbers.

Viesturs - re bodies:
1) Hall in notch between S Summit and final ridge
2) Fischer 250-300m above South Col on rock ledge of face above Col
3) Harris? no one knows - body not seen despite search by Viesturs and
Schauer at bergschrund at bottom of Lhotse Face
4) Hansen? not seen, no one knows - down East Face? no one knows
5) Namba - east side of South Col? no one went looking;

Helicopter that evacuated Gau and Weathers; landed twice to lift each from place slightly above most teams C1.

Breashears: Gerry Roach added to membership when Ohlund announced at BC he would go no higher - but Roach behaved very oddly and never went above BC himself.


Tsuzuki - 23 March (by telephone)

National Park did not permit her entry, but went into park without a permit, park authorities believe. This is misunderstanding - in Jan went to scene of Nov 95's avalanche in Gokyo. Tsuzuki plans to fly to SYB with expedition oxygen in a week. [She came to KTM yesterday 22 March].

She returned to BC and reached South Col and her ban on entry into Sagarmatha National's Park for 5 years took effect on 1 June.