원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on rock at night edge of Pillar
C4 at 100m from South Col-SE Ridge route (very well protected)
High point at below South Summit.

Lot of stone fell off SW Face so followed normal route to below Geneva Spur (further in that direction than original Polish route) and then at bergschrund at bottom of Lhotse Face and thence to and up Pillar. After C4 made, down to BC and some to Pheriche for rest. Went to C2 on 7th May. Gustafsson, Christensen, Duff, Duncan and Sherpas on 8th from C2 to C3 and on 9th from C3 to C4 but "we didn't like the look of the weather and came down again" to C2 (high sinuous clouds, gusty winds, and it didn't feel good" to these experienced climbers).

Hansen on 10th established medical unit at C2 while Gustafsson, Viesturs and Brunshems same day to C3, and Duff and Duncan to C3 next day for possible rescue and did escort down people descending later on 11th May. Down to BC to recuperate.

Duff, Duncan, Christensen, Gustafsson, Mathorne and 3 Sherpas from C2 on 21st to C3 and Gustafsson, Christensen to C4 and 22nd they and 2 Sherpas left C4 for summit. Christensen to 8400m and Gustafsson to 8600m but not using oxygen and got very cold. Sherpas using oxygen went 8600m and turned back with Gustafsson and climb finished: no more strength (Dorje and Dawa went to 8600m); had already decided this attempt would end climb.