원정 개요

C1 in Cwm
C2 at South Col.

On South African permit but entirely independent of them. Renard arrived KTM 22 March and flew to SYB 29th March - all his equipment; same mess tent and cook in BC no South African but own food and cook in C2. Strategy was to be light and fast so no camp at top of Icefall and none on Lhotse Face. To acclimatize climbed to 6100m and 7300m and 7500m several times but did not sleep there. Period of good weather is so brief that plan was to be ready when good weather came to go BC-Cwm-South Col-Summit 14th May 1st attempt and from Cwm with Babu and Dawa to col in 8 hours and from Col left 1:00 am on 15th but snow in couloir very deep, slow progress and on ridge wind strengthened and turned back below S Summit at 8:00 am. Down to BC to rest and after few days to Cwm. 22nd all 3 men to South Col and were there with IMAX team and Spanish and Swedes. Left Col for top on 23rd and snow much better in couloir. Imax mess and this trio passed each other several times and took turns breaking trail but trio were on top first. Renard followed old Bolivian custom and placed his son's umblical cord on summit. Returned up South Col at 3:00 pm, stayed 2 hours to rest and down to camp in Cwm at night: 32 hours Cwm-Col-top-Col-Cwm.

Sherpas:
Baba Tshering from Taksindu - well-known Everest summiter
Dawa, Babu Tsering's brother and also Taksindu: 32 yrs old
this perhaps his first 8000m summit athough he has been on Dhaulagiri I