원정 개요

C4 at South Col.

2 May Chen and Gau to C4 together but not feeling well on 9th May, 2 Sherpas stayed with him while Gau and 2 Sherpas go to Col. Planned 2-4 May summit bid. Both members used oxygen in C3 sleeping. Gau went ahead on 9th and learned from Col on radio Chen had fallen and died (body to KTM on 19th May). Gau left 12:30 am and on top 3:00 pm (after Hall and Pittman and before Fischer). Down to 8300m and bivouacked there with oxygen almost finished and alone while Sherpas went down 7:30 pm leaving Gau (they were experienced and quick and Gau could not follow them). Gau reached South Col afternoon with help of one his Sherpas who came up to him, and helped him to Col; had tried to descend alone in morning but too dizzy to move alone.

Gau's right eye had a particle inside: now bloodshot but can see now, hands and feet frozen and will lose parts. "Okay now only tired" want to climb again? "Sure why not?" "What?" "I don't know." Lost 4-5 Kg on climb. May go to Anchorage hospital that specializes in frostbite. Leaves KTM 15 May. 16 May was in good spirits.


Dr. David Shlim - 13 May 96

Nose frostbitten, "devastating injuries." Thinks he spent 2 nights out. 2 Sherpas left him in descent; passed Fischer, rushing up, above Hillary Step, as Gau went downwards.

10 fingers to knuckles and toes and soles of feet very bad, may be badly crippled.

Others of his expedition leave 19th.

Leaves Wed? (Raju at Hotel Thamel) to go up for telephone.