원정 개요

C2 in Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

At midnight of 9th/10th May summit party set out from col for top; they were all summiters and 2 Sherpas who turned back at SE Ridge at about 8500m. Storm brewed up about 5:00 pm with snowfall at 4:00 and from below. Fischer radioed c. 3:15 pm - extremely tired at summit and had same kind of previous medical problem; Lobsong reports that 8300m Fischer very confused sat down and refused to continue, so Lobsang left him at bivouac perch after trying to warm Fischer's face and reached col asking someone to go up to him. Beidleman in group and 11 together at Col unable to find tents. Gau probably shared Fischer's bivouac and next day said he left Scott more dead than alive. Fischer's death not related to clients; Beidleman's job was fixing ropes at front of party and Fischer's to bring up the rear and enforce summit off time. No client has said they saw Fischer after they left Col during his ascent. He obviously left Col later than all from this team and moved slowly. Lobsang said Fischer ripped off oxygen mask, glove, opened dome jacket. Fischer clearly seriously disoriented by cerebral edema.

Krakauer of Hall's team 17 May 96: "Beidleman did amazing job saving the lives of his clients" but Sandy Hill Pittman disagrees.

Sherpas:
Lobsang Jangbu, Beding, atop Everest 3 times, Cho Oyu and Broad Peak once
Nawang Dorje, Rolwaling, atop Cho Oyu twice, Everest never before
Tenzing, Thami, 28, atop Everest 2 times before, no other 8000m
Tashi Tshering, Pangboche, atop Everest 2 times before


10 June 97 - Trekking agent P B Thapa and Dr. Buddha Basnet:

Another Nawang Dorje from Rolwaling became very sick from pulmonary edema in C2 on 23 April, was evacuated from Pheriche by helicopter on 26 April to KTM, and died in Tribhuvan University Teaching Hospital on 7 June 96. He may have had some underlying illness (e.g., TB) but his death definitely due to his high altitude sickness and having been to C2's altitude. From BC he had been taken to Pheriche aid post where bad weather prevented immediate helicopter evacuation and he stopped breathing in Pheriche's Gamov bag for 5 minutes; in hospital showed some signs of dementia. (This Nawang Dorje had never been to any 8000m summit).