원정 개요

biv 1 on NW Face (on Japanese autumn BC route)
2 on NW Face to left of Japanese route
3 on NW Face
4 on NW Face
5 at top of Dablam Glacier on normal SW Ridge route
6 close to normal BC site.

Rested at BC 4 days on return from Island Peak. Furlan and Humar 21st April to 25th tried to mark ascent but weather bad (snowfall and frequent avalanche) all these days; put tent under serac at 5630m (at biv site) and waited for good weather which didn't come; on 28th down to BC, taking all gear down with them so that when went up again, second ascent would be pure alpine-style; had gotten to high point of 5780m on 24th. 30th April started up again in successful continuous push to top in more direct route than that of Japanese in 80 hrs on NW Face. In last of descent, went through C1 of Swedish-US team, lost their way below C1 in fog and bivouacked on grass near water and not far from normal BC site. 6th May returned to own BC.

Most difficult part on 1st and 2nd May (5680m to 6010m at end of rocks) this the crux of ascent 70 degrees to 90 degrees mostly ice; at top section, two very difficult pitches; 2nd biv very poor place (hanging biv) which had not expected to have to stop at, but did because was late in day; at this biv accidently dropped all ice screws and therefore had to continue upwards on face because impossible to decend without ice screws and to solo climb upwards (except for one rock pitch); biv 3 took hours to dig out ledge in hard ice.