원정 개요

BC at 50m lower than French autumn 1981 (less wind and had water)
ABC on 1st tower on central ridge of North Face
C1 end of ridge where it becomes wall
Biv1 at North Face
Biv2 at West Ridge
Biv3 at West Ridge.

No camps above C1 on wall where difficulties began: 50-70 degrees steep and traverse below rock band. Worked 5 days fixing rope on traverse above 5700m. Summit push alpine-style by 3 men attempted on 16 May, but terrible thunderstorm for 8 hours that after and huddled on small platform at 5700m where traverse ended. 17 May went to West Ridge and bived at 6000m. 18 May fixed-rope supply finished but up to 6300m. 19 May went 60m up difficult rock and ice, hard green ice to 6400m in 5 hours. At this rate not possible to go to top and back, so down to 6000m same site for biv. 30 May to C1 very tired and without food. 20 May afternoon bad weather closed in. 21st snow all day so lucky to have traversed before fresh snow.

North Face many seracs and very risky to climb it direct to summit.


Shrestha, Tourism - 23 May 85

17 May 5900m biv by 3 members
18 May 6250m biv
19 May 7000m biv on N Face right ridge
Going towards summit very strong wind and foggy these 3 days and snowfall, so difficult progress; short of food and rope.
2 members in BC.