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Sverdlovsk Annapurna Expedition

Annapurna I · 1996 · 봄 (1) · Russia

원정 개요

BC at normal site in Annapurna Sanctuary
C1 on glacier at bottom of South Face
C2 same as Bonington route on ridge
C3 same as Bonington route on ridge
C4 to right of Bonington route.

30th April reached 6800m and left gear there at top of this ridge and returned to C3 because deep snow and climbers tired; all down to BC. 7th May up again. 10th May reached 6900m and biv there. 11th May to 7100m fixing rope, but snowfall began and avalanche hit tent, so down to C3. More snowfall and avalanching so again all down to BC. 17th May up to C3 but tent buried by snow, spent night in it, 20th May weather worse and east wind started and sky grey, so decided to go down and climbing finished.

They were: Bolotov, Ermatchek, Khabibulin and Timofeev.

Route went to right of Bonington route at 6800m; intention was to climb a ridge directly to summit.

All climbers except Sedousov reached C2; he reached C1, climb too difficult technically for him so he left expedition; from 6400m to 6700m quite difficult, but rest not very difficult technically, but difficult to move because everyday snow and everyday had to make steps.

  • 내부 원정 ID1709
  • 원본 EXPIDANN196101
  • 대장Sergei Efimov
  • 루트 (Route)S Face (from 6800m to right of Bonington rte)
  • 최고 도달고도7100m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 9명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Sergei Borisovich EfimovRussiaLeader---
Alexei BolotovRussiaClimber---
Sergei BychkovskiRussiaExp Doctor---
Yuri ErmachekRussiaClimber---
Salavat KhabibulinRussiaClimber---
Valeri PershinRussiaClimber---
Boris SedusovRussiaClimber---
Sergei TimofeevRussiaClimber---
Evgeni VinogradskiRussiaClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Shataev, Vladimir · 1996 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1996 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199728701/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-I-South-Face-Attempt · 1996 · 웹사이트 (5) ·