원정 개요

C1 at Col
C2 on snow ridge (near rock ridge which is steep)
C3 on rock ridge
High point on snow face to right of NE Ridge.

8th May pitched C4 and down to BC on 9th to rest; then came 2nd period of bad weather with heavy snowfall. 15th May 3 members up from BC to C1 (all tents buried); 16th May to C2 "swimming in the snow" and stayed here 2 nights after digging out tents on arrival and during 17th; 18th May down to BC 28th. 21st May weather improved and first day of clear weather so 3 different members and Chuldin (Sherpa) to C1; 2 tents buried and lost 1 tent. 22nd to C2 where couldn't use one of 3 tents. Weather good but snow very deep but to C3 site and found nothing; higher to C4 and again camp destroyed and found only a sheet could be used by 2 members and 1 Sherpa only (1 member turned back). All supplies in camp gone but still went on up with very little gear at 6:00 am of 24th; reached 7800m, where Chuldin went back at 8:00 am while in one more hour reached 7850m big snow face to right of ridge and snow deep and Bogdan getting weak from lack of fluids so gave up; down to BC same day and climb finished.