원정 개요

Biv at saddle (slightly below normal site for C1)
C1 at normal C1 site
C3 (Tibetans said 6730m).

No fixed camps. Climbed with Ang Tshering (39 yrs, from Thami), followed by Samagaon people as high as C2 digging for tents and taking down fixed ropes, etc. Started up on 20th May and camped in a saddle 4000m, sligtly below normal site. 21st went to C1 site, 100m higher, carrying heavy loads and making trail above. 22nd to 6500m. 23rd to Tibetans C3 where was a broken tent at 7200m in serac in middle of (NE Face). 24th at 4:00-4:30 am started for summit in deep snow but no wind and nice day below plateau. Ang Tshering stopped 1-1/2 hours below summit because he was tired (this was where route steepens to top). Mauduit also tired but kept on to top at about 12:00 where found prayers flags and just below them where snow stakes with rope fixed to them. No wind and clear day and took video showing Samagaon. Then down to where Ang Tshering was waiting and together to Tibetan C3 and slept there very tired. 25th to BC. Much of climb up and down with Mauduit and Ang Tshering roped together ("he's a very safe guy").

Ang Tshering told Ang Rita of Himalayan Trust on 4th June that he really was too tired to go to summit after having broken the trail to his high point.