원정 개요

BC at normal site of recent years
C3 at NE Face in damaged tent left by Tibetans.

1st summit attempt from 29th April C1 in a continuous push by Alfredo and Carlos & reached 7950m at 4:00 pm. Because late in the day and storm coming, rested in biv (in scooped out snow) for 3-4 hours. Started down again in daylight and returned to BC that day, 30th April. Rested and then started up from BC on 8th May and stayed 1 day because weather "not looking good." Left C1 8:30 pm 9th May in another continuous push: arrived 7100m, rested there at 12:00 noon of 10th and big storm came including static fall from electricity in air. Had snowfall, wind and went out for attempt to go on up at 9:00 pm but stayed outside tent for only 20 mins and quickly retreated inside tent. 11th stayed at 7100m. 11th 8:30 pm again started up in stormy weather, "very difficult to orientate and very deep snow so we were very slow." Could not find a couloir & climbed rocky area and finally reached plateau at 8:00-9:00 am 12th May. Now no more snowfall, only very strong wind, so at least we could see" - "took us whole day to get to top because we had to fight with the wind." Reached top 6:00 pm. Last part is very tricky and difficult but surmounted this and arrived at very top, where found Tibetan prayer flags tied to their 60m-fixed rope. Spent 30 mins on top, then started down at 6:30 pm down tricky ridge to plateau and then dark in very dark night and very windy biv at 7900m with no tent or sack, but had good acclimatization from 1st summit bid. When daylight came, started down (still windy) and clear day able to get down during whole day to 7100m camp where slept finally (no sleep since 8:30 pm of 11th): "then we were "safe." Arrived BC on 15th descending slowly through day of 14th and its night through winds constantly and snowfall 14th afternoon and very foggy.

"Very happy, satisfied" to have done 14 8000ers. Many Himalayan faces to be done in future. On K2 reached less than 20 from very highest point: "it was just there" on almost flat summit but very strong wind.

[Viesturs, Gustafsson and Darsney planned to join this expedition after Everest, but never came due to the disaster on Everest.]