원정 개요

In Ktm to finalize arrangements re imports, approach march, etc.

Had planned to attempt Everest [from Tibet] but no real expedition because of events in Tibet at that time. An advance group of 3 were there on recce to Rongbuk Glacier with Chinese.

Philmonov: 1952 Datchnolian Everest expedition did not exist; never heard of this name; please help us with this disinformation. This 1982 Everest expedition is first Soviet expedition to Everest and to Himalayas.

Plan to establish BC 20th March in open part of Khumbu Glacier in usual place at foot of icefall.

26 members, 16 to walk on route never before used; little to left of Bonington route: SW Face to W Ridge at 8500m and thence to summit. Ridge is broader and will climb a little to right of ridge itself. 5 camps above BC. C5 at 8400-8500m just before ridge. 3 summit teams of 4 members each. Hope all 12 will reach summit; have had in part of 2 years in Soviet Union up to 7500m.

Use oxygen: all camps will have supply; use at each stage will be decided at the time. So far Soviet climbers have never used oxygen.

Sherpas: 9 high altitude Sherpas including Pemba Norbu as sirdar. No women member climbers; this is 1st Soviet expedition so decided to avoid.

Highest sumit ever reached by Soviet climbers in 1957 in prep for 1958 Everest 7800m Kongur in Chinese with oxygen.

75-80% equipment will be Soviet and rest usual European equipment. Oxygen equipment will be Soviet especially developed for this expedition.

Chosen route: think it one of most difficult routes on everest. Route is logical and shortest and most convienient to W Ridge. Most dangerous part is beginning of face, not in couloir where rock falls came.

Chose Everest as 1st Himalayan expedition because it is Everest; said not come to Everest in 1980 because too inconvenient in Moscow Olympics year.

We have no other equipment besides what shown in customs declaration.

Tamm expects to go no higher than 6500m camp at foot of face. Tamm arrived KTM 27-28 Feb and last of his team's members came 10th March.


Soviet Everest

Total 27 Soviets on team including BC-only people.

5 went with baggage via Kirantichap 7th March. 7 flew to Lukla 8th March - 15 including Tamm flew to Lukla. Nearly 12 tons baggage.

Permission for Soviet aircraft to come to KTM with the baggage was refused by HMG; doesn't know reason.

Last of members arrive KTM 10th Mar and leave Lukla 13th March. Main group
BC 20th complete nearly 5 weeks climbing route. SW Face still, no change ,
15 Sherpas above BC and 4 BC staff.


Some facts on Soviet Sagarmatha Expedition - 1982

1) Dr. Evgeny Tamm, Head of the Expedition
2) Dr. Anatoly Ovchinnikov, Chief Coach

First Persons to Reach the summit

Eduard Myslovsky, 44, a lecturer at the Maching Building Institute in Moscow, and Vladimir Balyberdin, 32, an engineer from Leningrad, reached the top on May 4, 1982.

On April 26, these mountaineers left the base camp to set the new route. It took them four days to reach the fourth camp and three days to the fifth camp. They stretched ten ropes each 45 metres long. They worked even during night fall, quite often late in the night to prepare the way to the summit for themselves and other groups of mountain climbers.

Scaling at Night

On the night of May 4, 1982 two more climbers Sergei Bershov, 35, house painter and student of an evening institute, and Mikhail Turkevich, 28, senior instructor of the mountaineering club "Donbass," scaled the Mt. Sagarmatha.

Third Successful Attempt

On 5th May afternoon Valentin Ivanov, 41, department chief of the designing bureau, High temperature Institute, and Sergei Efimov reached the summit.

Fourth Ascent

On May 8, 1982, V. S. Khrischaty, 31, engineer-geologist, and Kazbek Valiev, 30, senior engineer, ascended the peak.

Fifth and Final Successful Attempt

On May 9th 1982 Valery Khomutov, 40, research worker, Yuri Golodov, senior researcher, and Vladimir Puchkov reached the Sagarmatha summit.

Steepness

The Soviet mountaineers scaled Sagarmatha on the route with steepness from 40 to 60 degrees. It was difficult to find the place to drive a hook into a jut of vertical rock.

Rugged South-Western Slope and Hillary's comment

The Soviet mountaineers set a new route for the summit over the rugged south-western slope that was regarded actually insurmountable until now. At a meeting with Soviet climbers in KTM before their departure to the base camp Edmund Hillary, one of the first two men to scale Sagarmatha, said that the opening of this new route will be a new step in high altitude alpine climbing.

Some other facts

The distance from the first intermediate camp (6500m above sea level) to the last and fifth one from where the groups assaulted the summit, is 2700 meters. The average age of the ascenders is 35, Mikhail Turkevich, 28 being the youngest.

The clothes of the Soviet team were made especially for climbing Mt. Sagarmatha. The members wore down suits and anoraks and kapron trousers over them. Such material is wind-resistant, but at the same time, it allows perspiration to evaporate. They also wore silk or woollen gloves, double shoes and wool-lined boots.