원정 개요

Climbing route: Southwest = West Ridge-West Face (usual route)
BC on 21 May at 5200m at south of Dzampa (same as Spanish BC)
Biv1 on 23rd at 5700m at Gyabrag Glacier near "g" on Schneider map
Biv2 on 24th at 6350m at Spanish C2 this season
Biv3 on 25th at 6700m at Chinese C3 just above serac on snow plateau east of
Pt 6446m and equally west of 7570m
Biv4 on 26th at 7050m at 3rd biv of Spanish and Chinese C4
Biv5 on 27th at 7600m above Spanish C4, on rock spur SW of point 7570m.

After accident decided Poles not time enough to reach to via East Ridge after time spent evacuating accident victims to get good acclimatization and climb very difficult route. Had agreed with Tourism Ministry in KTM might spend small party round to Spanish route and on 18 May could see 2 Americans at 7500m only. So on 18 May sent Gardzielewski and Jezierski who made alpine style ascent alone, following Spanish (and Chinese) route to top. Fell in crevasse on 27th and stopped there that night. On top for 15 minutes on 28 May and back to Biv 5. 29 May at Biv 2, 30 May Biv 1 and 31 May Basque BC. Left BC 1 June. Kochanczyk camped near their Biv 2 alone during their ascent and they met him there in their descent; he had arrived BC on 23 May.

From C3 2 Americans climbed alone while Poles went to investigate avalanche. Made C4 on 15th, 16th another carry to C4, 17th rested in C4. 10th in bad weather in cave at 7500m, 17th rested in storm, in C5 20th to ridge camp, C6 21st in C6 with storm (snow and wind), 22nd first afttempted Cho Oyu and reached 7800m to gully that stopped British in 1984. Here tried Tibetan side looking for escape route around gully system - gully drops 1000m or more of rock into Tibet and low on climbers and equipment, couldn't go further. Should establish camp near gully and 4-man team with at least 200m of rope and 30 pitons to get across this difficult section. So gave up Cho Oyu and concentrated on Ngojumba since only 2 men now on ridge route.

Could have climbed East Ridge if had been more members support. Only 2 Americans and 2 Poles (Jankowiak and Otreba) enthusiastic about it and expedition sort of fell apart with Gardzielewski keen on South Pillar or South Face.

Ascent route E Ridge via S Face of Ngojumba Kang; highest point at E Ridge Gully; descent route E Ridge.

When it became clear that the difficult E Ridge was likely to be an unsurmountable obstacle after valuable time had been lost from a huge avalanche, Gardzielewski and Jezierski went around to the western side of the mountain to reach the summit via the normal route after 5 bivouacs.

Ngojumba Kang climbed by 2 Americans after attempt of Cho Oyu via E Ridge failed.


Shrestha, Tourism - 2 June 85

2 May C2 6400m
3 May C3 6900m

14 May huge avalanche on South Face completely destroyed ABC and injured 2 members.

15 May C4 7200m at base of Ngojumba South Face.

It was now agreed Polish including Otreba would descend to investigate avalanche while Americans would continue climb.

18 May C5 7500m
20 May C6 on ridge just below summit of Ngojumba in snow cave.
22 May - Richey and Wilcox attempted East Ridge of Cho Oyu - reached
about 7800m but stopped because of extreme technical
difficulties and return to C4 and went to Ngojumba summit same
day - 1 hour on top and down to C4
23 May - Americans to C1
24 May - Americans to BC
25 May - Americans left BC with same Poles

18 May 2 Poles left BC towards SW Ridge Cho Oyu after talking to Spaniards and LO's. No further information regarding their climb.


Roslan - 16 May 85

Serac avalanche hit 14 May 8:00 am when getting ready to leave ABC to climb up with Gardzielewski who was only slightly injured and stays with team though further climbing uncertain. Richey and Sopicki broke ribs, etc. Stays in KTM for others to return and fly to Warsaw together from Delhi 13 June.

2 Americans and 2 Poles Otreba and Jankowiak probably in C4B now in push for Col and East Ridge to Cho Oyu summit.

Last 10 days snowfall every afternoon bringing deep snow on Ngojumba face
Camps already made:

BC - 5100m 15 April first people arrived
ABC - 5200m
C1 - 5950m
C2 - 6500m
C3 - 6950m
C4A - 7100m on Ngozumba face

C4 probably by now moved to C4B about 7500m on Ngojumba face and occupied by Jankowiak, Richey, Otreba and Wilcox. Last camp to be C5 at 7750m on Col between Ngojumba and Cho Oyu; beyond this on Cho Oyu East Ridge to sleep in caves.

Rest of them should reach KTM in first days of June.