원정 개요

2 Sherpas went to top on 6th May 1 hr before Japanese because one Japanese not in good condition and climbing slowly. Sherpas waited for Japanese at summit, met Korean party who arrived later, because after going down little from top, Japanese had white-out and returned to summit to wait for good weather.

5 left top at 13:00 hrs and reached C4 16:00 hrs; had to negotiate many crevasses. C3 and C4 very difficult. Alternating snow ridge and blue ice traverses, ridge soft snow and ice. 650m fixed rope this section; C2 and C3 = 300m fixed rope.

Route = N Ridge. After summit, 2 ladies rested in C2 for 2 days, very tired.