원정 개요

Okabe killed 24 April by seracs at first which brought new snow with them. He was just reaching C5 at nearly 6800m when hit at 1:30 pm with 2 Sherpas [Dawa and Ang Rinzin]. Sherpas ran away: Okabe also ran but not far enough. Sherpas fell 60m but OK. Okabe fell 100m into crevasse and snow and ice in top filling crevasse and making it impossible to recover body.

C5 = final camp; summit planned for 25 April and Okabe to go summit. 2 other members [Maeda and Ozawa] were 100m above C5 making route and were also struck by avalanche; fell 150m and 80m with avalanche: were stopped by fixed rope and OK; were hit by little snow and blast of avalanche wind.

25th April 2 members [Ozawa and Okabe] and Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa were to go to summit.

After accident search for Okabe. 2 members [Maeda and Ozawa] injured and nervous and C5 entirely lost in avalanche so gave up climb.

C5 to top only one route and above this all seracs, so must climb under this danger.

Route probably same as 1961 except seracs and glacier much changed so really not same. Were in same area of N Face as Indians; would suggest same route to future climbers, but put C5 150m higher (anyway altimeter probably wrong and C2-C5 probably 300m higher).