원정 개요

Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung.

BC to C1 10 days because carried all loads to C1 and made it advanced base. C1 to C2 very difficult, steep, snow avalanches, difficult couloir, another 10 days; between C1 and C2 had deposit place 5500m.

C2 to C3 weather bad: much snow, many crevassses, long way: about 3 km distance, maybe 4 km. C4 on col at 6500m, only 200m higher; bad weather, again much snow.

Highest point 6700-6800m on 18th May. Again snow and strong wind. C4 tents broken, can't stay in tent and made snowhole where 3 men stayed 2 nights (Kudo, Hori and sirdar Ang Kami Tshering). Tents broken also at C3 and C2. So when went down from C4 snowhole not able to see tents, must dig them out there 3 had gone to highest point on 16th May. 18th May high party went down and climb finished.

This route is possible from C3; above no dangers; above C4 2 or 3 difficult places but not so steep; no need for a C5.

8 climbing Japanese + 3 Sherpas (nominal members)


Letter to Elizabeth Hawley from Jimmy Roberts - May 31, 1982

The Japanese have just returned from their unsuccessful assault on Himlung, which they tried to climb via the NE Ridge, but never really got onto the ridge because of all the snow that fell and kept covering their route, and the winds and snow that broke tents and caused a bit of havoc.

BC - 4000m - 5 April
C1 - 4500m - 15 April (this became base when all loads were ferried to this camp)
C2 - 5900m - 25 April
C3 - 6300m - 4 May
C4 - 6500m - 13 May (on Col)
High point - 6700-6800m - 6 May

C1 to C2: very difficult: steep, snow avalanches, difficult couloir.
Between these camps, expedition had a deposit place at 5500m.

C2 to C3: many crevasses, long way (3-4 km), much snow fell and covered route.

C3 to C4: vertical distance only 200m: again much snow.

After high point reached on 16 May, expedition gave up because snow and wind broke tents at C4 (so they dug a snowhole and stayed in it two nights) and also at C3 and C2.

Eight-member team of Japanese plus three Sherpa members had no serious accident or frostbite. The route is possible, they believe, with no additional camps above C4 if only there wasn't so much snow. No dangers above C3, not difficult above C4 except for a couple of spots and not very steep.

Cheo - they could see both north and south side of this nearby peak and think its easy from the north, very steep on the southern side.