원정 개요

C2 to C3 very difficult snow ridge. Fixed rope needed all way to top. 70-degrees steep, very hard ice for 40m section. Frequent snow fall during route making. In section above C3 rock ridge, dangerous from falling rocks and spliting rock.

Route was SW Ridge. This is only route saw to be possible - no avalanches this route.

Miss Araki did not go to top because she was new climber and technical difficulties too much for her Yasuda decided.

No accidents, frostbite. All in KTM yesterday afternoon.

Doctor stayed at BC or C1 only.


Yamada, et el - 23 March 82

Kodari road to near Inkhu, then on foot up Baleghi Khola to BC at 4300m SW of Phurbi Chhyachu.
Route=SW Ridge maybe
4 or 6 camps above BC with highest 6200m
3 Sherpas above BC = members (nominal)
3 oxygen medical only
Snow and rock mixed, very steep
No other attempts on mountain before
Arrive BC after 7-9 days march, summit 1 month after BC.