원정 개요

BC at normal site
Biv1 at 700m above col on beginning of ridge
Biv2 at NE Ridge.

Stayed to right side of whole glacier, to right side of icefall to Col. On 14 May climbed the whole ridge to site of 1984 spring highest point. Next morning on terrain new to them and kept to left of big snow field to summit ridge. There were five summits on this ridge and the 5th one is the highest one. Most expeditions probably do not actually reach true summit in mist. In descent had to stay on ridge but for one hour had painful electricity pulling Messner's hair. Left biv 2 at 6:00 am and returned at 4:00 pm.


Tukuche - 8 May 85

We are on the way to it [Dhaulagiri]; only 3 porters, 2 mailrunners, 1 Sherpa, 1 cook, 1 LO and 2 members. I think it is the smallest expedition to a 8000er peak ever.

On Annapurna we were very lucky, the last day of good weather we could reach the summit. (Bad wind, still our feet hurting from being frostbitten on the summit day). The second attempt you can here from the friends [Patscheider, Rieser, Schiestl]. They should be in KTM.


Dhaulagiri BC - 16 May 85

On May 12 we reached (via Dhampus and French Col) the BC (4600m).

On May 13 Hans Kammerlander and I climbed up to the Col (2 Sherpas helped carry, since Hans and I had to fix a few ropes). We two went ahead, the Sherpas turned back to BC. We had our first bivouac on 6300m. Windy.

On May 14 Hans and I climbed the NE Ridge and had a biv of 7350m. Very windy and snow in the afternoon. Night not bad.

On May 15 we reached the summit - a very very long ridge - on 12:00 hours - stayed for half an hour (windy, electricity in the air, pains in the hair, sounds on the ice axes, dangerous).

On our way back we had bad visibility, wind; we reached the biv at 7350m, very bad night. On May 16th we climbed back for BC downwards. Not any serious problems. Saila and Phurba observing us with the binoculars from the BC came up to ours to help.

On May 17 we will leave BC. On 17th May Hans and I will try to fly from Jomsom to Pokhara.