원정 개요

6 times made fixed ropes to sumit from C2. 100m fixed rope between C2 and top.
From C2 = ice face and some places rock band; C1 to C2 = snow ridge and snow face.

Was difficult climb.

Asano not to top because toothache kept him in BC.

S Face; did not go over to E Ridge as planned because of danger from snow avalanches; did not make a C3.

From C2's 7 April established to summit on 23rd April: took 2 weeks making route, fixing rope and descending for rest periods.

Kajimoto and Kurimoto fell last part of descent from summit but not hurt.

Asano and Kamimoto arrived KTM 6 May; others arrived after 3-4 days and Kurimoto after 10 days at glacier.


Inoue - 18 March 82

Approach from Langshisa Kharka to south of mountain, up complicated structure on south side; final route maybe East Ridge from C3 at 6250m on ridge, or up snow face from snow plateau of 5800m (directly up face to summit) and in this case no C3.

Leave KTM 21 March for Trisuli Bazar; 10 days caravan to BC at 4400m.
Arrive BC by 1 April, summit about 1 May.
2 Sherpas above BC.
Oxygen medical only.
"Route is very difficult but there is no other route."

BC to C1 dangerous from falling seracs and stonefall. Most difficult part of route would be East Ridge part of climb because very steep; up snow face direct perhaps not so difficult but avalanche danger.