원정 개요

All in KTM
BC 3800m - 8 April
C1 4900m - 15 April
C2 5300m - 20 April
C3 6300m - 2 May
C2-C3 difficult steep knife ridge and very strong wind.

Summit 6 May
Miss Key
Ang Rita Sherpani
Nima Wangchu
Dawa Wangchu

On top at 12:20 and met Japanese from other side.

The 1st party [Key, Ang Rita, Nima Wangchu, Dawa Wangchu] left C3 on 5th May at 09:00 hrs and biv 100m below summit in crevasse with biv sheet because were late and last 100m vertical blue ice, which hadn't been able to see from below and did not know was there. Next day at 08:00 started up again and fixed rope [and reached top at 12:20 hrs].

2nd Party [Youn, Ang Phurba, Pemba Tshering] left C3 on 6th May 05:00 hrs and reached top at 14:30 hrs.

Route = SE Ridge as per photo and diagram in brochure.

1st party little frostbite from biv, but not serious. Expedition really controlled by Korean male BC manager Kim Kyung-Bae who was experienced climber on 4 previous climbs inlcuding Manaslu; he directed climb from down below.


Chung - 14 March 82

Route = SE Ridge.

All 5 members arrived 7th, leave KTM 23 March (late departure because baggage still in Calcutta). Charter bus to Dumre and then march in to Chame and BC. Arrive BC in 7 days trek at 3800m.

Camps above BC with C4 at 6500m; maybe C3 at 6200m and no C4 necessary; depends on weather and conditions on mountain.

Most difficult part of route is just below C3's 6000m which is steep section.
4 weeks BC to summit.
8 Sherpas above BC (3 of them women including sirdar Ang Rita Sherpani).
Medical oxygen only
All members work for Sunkyang Ltd, big business/commercial house and are members of Sunkyang Alpine Club.
Cameraman maybe go as high as C1
1st Korean woman's expedition in Himalayas.