원정 개요

Heo on top 20th May with Pasang Norbu and Ang Phurba - found a wooden toy red, black & white turtle in crack in rock near 2-3m summit with ice piton (which must be Kukuczka's toy left last Oct). Heo left in place of toy a carabinier and 4-leaf clover from Korea.

Route = Through SE Ridge from S Col C3.

When reached C5, changed to E Face. 1st climbed to get this face to top - more direct route - E Face to be known as Korean face.

C4 to C5 almost 2 weeks because strong winds with some snow and members resting in BC for attack. 3 summiters made C5 and C6 and then to summit.

2nd summit assault scheduled but suddenly weather very bad with storm and wind - not enough food in camps because stayed so long in KTM and half of Sherpas sick.

20th May left C6 4:30 am reached top 2:00 pm. 40 minutes on top in clouds and wind. Returned to C6 at 6:30 pm. Found toy when going to top, only 2-3m below top, which is too pointed for 3 members to stand. 4 members left BC 23 May and arrived KTM 29th May; others all in BC on 23rd, not going up to clear more gear & left BC 28th May and arrived KTM 15-16 June.

Heo proud to be 1st Korean on Makalu summit - happy when reached top.


Shim & Hahn - 27 Feb 82

route = SE Ridge complete from beginning - same as Japanese spring 70
BC at normal route 4700m
Then divide into 2 parties - A route is new = Korean route join again at C3 near South Col at 6600m
Above C4 is Black Gendarme very difficult section - from here across gendarme to C5.

Start climb about 5 April and 2-3 summit attacks 15-20 May.
Baggage now in CCU port - arrives KTM 9-10 March.

Leave KTM about 12-13 March bus to Dharan farther and then walk.
Arrive BC 30 March
9 Sherpas above BC including sirdar and 5 high altitude porters to C3 = 14 Sherpas above Base

35 oxygen bottles for summit attempt, medical use and same sleeping. Want to climb without oxygen if possible.

All members now in KTM except surgeon, who arrives 3 March: 3 climbers, 3 Drs and 2 leadership.