원정 개요

Both Austrian-Swiss and German expedition running together except for summit. No problem between groups [thus combined description for both expeditions].

Germans arrived BC 5 April at 4250m; Schell and his Austrian-Swiss team arrived BC 12 April and BC 50m different.

C1 5000m 10 April occupied. Aust-Swiss had C1 same place
C2 5600m 14 April Germans and Austrians at same altitude
C3 6400m Austrian 20 April
C3 6300m Germans 21 April
C4 in snowcave by Germans 6800m on 3 May
C4 by Austrians at 7100m also on 3 May
C5 by Germans at 7250m on 5 May (Austrian-Swiss had no C5)

Germans tried summit on 6 May: Beyerlein, Guenther, Kirner and Lechleitner. No Sherpas because Germans had no Sherpas. 7950m reached. Beyerlein spent 4 days in C5 and tried a second time for summit with Kuehn 9 May; reached 7300m only this time.

No success for Germans: strong storm and very cold.
Germans used no oxygen; one has frostbitten toes; no accidents.

Shanti Rai helping clear route but C2 and C3 very difficult, very steep. He was given big load by Sherpas who did not wait for him. He alone in chimney, maybe fall backwards with load. Disappeared and definitely is dead. Was stormy: snowfall with wind and cold that day.

7 yesterday, others arrive about 27-8 May. at Shakti Hotel.


Schell - 12 May 82

4 left BC 7th evening; others started from BC on 13th and arrived 21 or 22 May (at Ambassador).

C4 by Germans at 6800m
C4 at 7100m by Austrians on 3 May
C5 on 5 May at 7300m by Germans

4 May at 2:00 am 6 set out for top from C4: Woergoetter, Buerkli, Haegler, Buholzer and Fehlmann. Buholzer and Fehlmann dropped out at 7900m tired. Other 4 to top, 12:30 by Dawa Tenzing and Woergoetter and other 2 about 3:00 pm. Little windy on top but fine even for 2nd pair. 1-1/2 hour on top and returned to C4 at 5:00 pm and other Haegler at 6:30 and Buerkli at 7:30 pm.

Buerkli arrived at C4, spoke few words and collapsed. Tried for 4-1/2 hours to revive him but leader and doctor believe he died immediately on arrival at C4.

Next group (Austrian-Swiss) and in C3 that day and on 6 May tried for top but did not get above 7900m, same as Germans.

3rd and 4th groups from Austria were to try and may be Germans also. Doubt they could have succeeded because bad weather. Body not possible to bring down so left in crevasse at 7100m near C4.

Dutch Rib not possible now but in autumn good. Followed Spanish East Peak route and then Germans Middle Peak route and thence to top. Over 1000m fixed rope.


Werner and Egertz - 23 April 82

By first group:
BC 4250m
C1 5100m
C2 5850m depot - 6 April
Hans Schell arrived BC 7 or 8 April
Egertz left expedition because of sickness on 19 April.


Schell - 7 April 82

Schell and last 3 others of Austrians group leave KTM today and arrive BC after 8 days. Main Austrian party arrive BC 2 days from now.

Germans have no H-A Sherpas
Austrians have 4 H-A Sherpas
Austrians have 12 med oxygen only
All must climb same route (Dutch rib)

Germans permitted to go to site of C2 (5500m) only; not even to establish camp there until Schell arrives BC. Then all decide exact route and climb proceeds.

Schell expects both parties camps to be very near each other, but lack of space on rib will require same slight distance between them.

BC - 4400m
C1 - 5000-5100m (only for acclimatization and emergency)
C2(ABC) - 5500m
C3 - 6300m
C4 - 7000m
C5 - 7500m
Summit early May

All must leave BC before or with Schell. None can stay on after he leaves. Schell expects return KTM late in May, but must give chance to all to go to summit.


Austrian Annapurna I

4 arrived KTM 7 March and 10 more came 14th. All are Germans except Umlauft. Sherpas above BC.

Annapurna I North Face Dutch route

Leave 17-19 March and arrive BC about 10-12 days later.

Hanns Schell's group of 18 arrive 15 and 22 March and Schell on 4 April and join at BC 1-2 weeks later.

7 Sherpas above BC
5 camps above BC with C5 at 7000-7200m
Summit 15-20 May
Oxygen medical only