원정 개요

4 came down to Pheriche after 1st camp in good snow conditions; when wanted to put in 2nd camp started snowing; deep snow and avalanches; went back to mountains and put in C2 after ? hrs. walk for 100m of route; C1 to C2 is steeped and most dangerous from seracs and avalanches; after C2 put in, down to BC for rest.

From C2 to C3 Sherpas did not carry so members had to do all the work. C3 placed and twice occupied; wanted to go to top on 4th but stove not working and again on 7th or 8th but storm so strong could hardly come down and many avalanches; Hans blown sideways; all but Trummer were in C3 for this attempt.

High avalanches turned around and went upwards, wind was so strong in mid-April. Did not lose any tents or much equipment.

Lhotse Shar in middle of snowstorms while Ama Dablam, Lhotse and Everest clear. Came down from C3 to BC on 8th May and that was end of climb (Sherpas up to clear lower camps after this).

Route= SE Ridge with same variations on last expedition route above 1st camp.
No accidents or frostbite.
No technical problems above C3 but did not get above C3.
Used no oxygen


Erwin and Havens, Ama Dablam - 6 May 82

Lhotse Shar in mid-April. Were at Pheriche regrouping after such strong winds that avalanche going upwards.


Berger and Clapasson - 24 March 82

Route = SE Ridge same as Swiss
KTM 26 March to Lukla arrived BC after 10-12 days at 5300m east of Island Peak and beside Lhotse Shar Glacier.

3 camps on ridge:
C1 - 6600m
C2 - 7300m
C3 - 7800-7900m

Arrived BC around 5 April, summit 4 weaks later; 2 Sherpas above BC.
Oxygen for medical use.


Swiss Lhotse Shar Expedition

No plan to go on to Lhotse and main peak; we are very small group.
75 porters from Lukla.
Berger returns to KTM in late May - has trekking clients in Khumbu after climb.