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Belgian Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1982

Dhaulagiri I · 1982 · 봄 (1) · Belgium

원정 개요

Lots of snow. C3 buried twice, found it first time after 2 days but not second time; second time climb was finished anyway. C2 this time also under snow. BC normally has no snow but constant snow this time.

Left BC 15th May. Had to wait for weather to permit clearing mountain; all off mountain by 14th and all safe.

No one used oxygen at all for any reason throughout expedition. No oxygen used at all even for medical reasons.

More went to summit than between expected. Without Sherpas success impossible, they make tracks.

Much snowfall all time. Arrived BC one week late, could not return via Dhampus Pass. Rest of expedition leaves BC about 17 May. Detienne left 11 May. All finally down in BC by 16 May.

Summit attempt at end of April by Van Snick, Cornellisen, Ang Rita and Ang Jangbu, but could not reach C5 because of weather and good food shortage (Abts had cut food supplies in KTM). Reached about 7500m.

7 May another and last attempt by Abts, Sebille, Sungdare and Ang Phurba from C5 early am. At 10:15 said on walkie-talkie we return because of wind and snow. Reached 8015m. Went down to C3 same day and to BC on 8 May.


Telex message received KTM:
11 April from Abts to Antwerp says
BC reached 1 April and fully established 4 April.
Climbing started 7 April


Abts - 8 March 82

Members are all Flemish
Leave KTM 10 March and arrive BC 4 April
BC at about 5200m so called total BC (low because of lots of recent snow),
then dump and new BC at 5800m.
C1 on glacier. NE Col C2, plus 3 more camps.
8 climbing members
4 Sherpas above BC
1st Belgian expedition to Himalayas at BC
Oxygen med only
Summit beginning of May
Knows of no previous Belgians

  • 내부 원정 ID1682
  • 원본 EXPIDDHA182101
  • 대장Eduard Abts
  • 루트 (Route)NE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8167m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 16명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Eduard (Eddy) AbtsBelgiumLeader---
Philip CornelissenBelgiumClimber성공--
Jean DelaruelleBelgiumExp Doctor---
Herman DetienneBelgiumBC Manager---
Marnix LefeverBelgiumClimber성공--
Mark SebilleBelgiumClimber---
Nico SmeetsBelgiumClimber---
Herman TettelinBelgiumClimber---
Jan Van HeesBelgiumClimber성공--
Rudy Van SnickBelgiumClimber성공--
Lutgarde VivijsBelgiumClimber성공--
Maurits VreudgeBelgiumExp Doctor---
Ang Jangbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Ang Phurba SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Ang Rita SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Sungdare SherpaNepalH-A Worker---

출처·참고문헌

Guha, Kamal K. · 1982 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
De Schaduw van de EverestGrypdonck, Peter · 1982 · 단행본 (1) ·
· 1982 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198324602/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-I · 1982 · 웹사이트 (5) ·