원정 개요

Tried alpine-style from C1 after having carried loads there. 4 went with 2 tents (except Ollaquindia) and food for 5-6 days on 18 April. One day snowstorm at C3 with strong wind. 20th April again up to 7000m. 21 April made summit attack and reached 7350m. Icy slope (45-50 degrees) which was most interesting part of climb. Began to snow and did not feel strong enough and went back to 7000m. 22 April very bad weather all day and ran out of food so went down to C2.

23 April to C1 was worst day, horrible weather.

Made no other climbing attempts because all men climbing all the time and carrying the loads so tired and no food.

No acclimatization trouble, no accidents or frostbite.
Route = South Face = Terray is route; did not go to NW Ridge because wanted quick ascent with their food shortage. Last section this route would require time to fixed rope.


Ochoa

Route = NW Ridge up: ski descent by 1 member
All 5 members arrived 7 March, leave KTM 18 March by truck to Dharan
Arrive BC about 4 April at 4800-5000m
2 camps before Ridge
C1 6000m
C2 6500m base of NW Ridge
C2 7000m - midridge if necessary; if ridge in good condition, no C3 but
alpine-style above C2
About 4 weeks climb = early May on top
No Sherpas above BC
Medical oxygen only.