원정 개요

BC at left side of Mristi Khola between 1950 & Spring 1984
C1 on glacier.

Most difficult sections: Kammerlander below C2 70-75 degrees very steep ice and rock; Messner between C2 and Biv 1: 20m smooth rock (no holds, no pitons possible); Patscheider above Biv 2: 30m vertical green hard ice. Plus ridge is not easy (up and down, quite vertical snow pressed on rocks) and dangerous to fall. Below C2 rock fall in afternoon and middle third above C2 to Biv 1, overlooked by ice serac and biv 1 and 2 below is ice serac.

BC - 10 Apr 85

We reached BC, 4010m, yesterday. The route to khola was quite difficult and we had to send back most of our porters halfway; only with 20 of them - going back and forward - we could go ahead.

We are on the left side of khola between the Herzog BC (1950) and Sigayret BC (1984).

The NW Face of Annapurna looks steep and difficult; anyway we will make a direct route between the Sterner attempt and the Sigayret attempt.

Tonight we had a bad storm and the kitchen broke. We have 20 cm of fresh snow.

On the 12th April we will go to look for a route throughout the icefall on the foot of our face. The first part of the wall we will fix with ropes. From 6000m onwards it is our plan to try it in alpine style.


Letter from Messner, BC - 26 Apr 85

Hans Kammerlander and I climbed up to the summit of Annapurna I on a totally new route:

20/4 C1 easy good weather
21/4 C2 fixed ropes, good weather
22/4 bivouac 7200m, snowstorm
23/4 bivouac 7500m good weather, windy
24/4 summit, strong wind
25/4 BC, snow danger
26/4 all of the members are in the BC; snow avalanches in the face.

Now we will wait for a second attempt for the other three.

Over route is a fine line, partly extremely difficult and dangerous (extremely) in case of new snow. We had a few good, clear days and came back before a long snowfall. Frostbitten fingers (Hans and I), need rest so bad. Now we wait for the Dhaulagiri. Kammerlander is in the good shape.