원정 개요

On summit day were almost completely out of food in high camps; weather (high winds and snow) was the problem.

McInally in snow cave.
ABC 16,500 ft - 13th or 14th May.
C1 18,500 ft - 16th
C2 21,500 ft - 28th

Old piton found at 21,300 ft by Rob Hall, older than last 34 years, so probably Japanese. Near a peak and perhaps Japanese highest point route was pretty much where expected it to be and apparently same as French. So first route and obvious route up the mountain; saw the crevasses that stopped others. We were in early and in few weeks will be very winds apen.

2500 ft fixed rope ice cliff's blue ice; extremely hard climbing. No accidents, frostbite.

McInally and Hall arrived KTM today, others walking out arrived 10 April. All leave 14 April.


Van Grondelle - 28 March 82

Bryan Morris and Van Grondelle went to Namche while others went up to ABC. VG became sick to Namche and had bad knee. Others were up above C2 on 23rd above ice cliff. VG flew to KTM 26th ex-Lukla while Morris went back to BC; he plans return to KTM 30th or 31st.

All others well, no acclimatization problems.
VG waits for return of others.


From postcards dated 15 and 16 March 82

Arrived BC 11 March - 15000 ft
ABC at 16,000 ft
C1 at 18,500 ft 15 March. Expect to be on summit by end of March. Have reached 18,500 ft with some technical difficulties and much cold and wind. All climbers acclimatizing well. "Hope to be on top by 25-26th and home for Easter."


Peter - 26 March 82

Another card from Peter same date: "C2 is going to be hard as there is 1000 ft of green ice to climb at about 19-20,000 ft. Hope to be there in 4-5 days later.


McInally - 14 Feb 82

8 members including 2 BC only. All arrived 13th and leave 19-21st walking to BC in 10 days.
route = SW Ridge - Friday '81 route
BC at about 4400m (14,000 ft)
3 camps above BC including an ABC which will later be moved up to C3 - altitude of C3 not known till see mountain.
2 weeks to climb mountain.
No oxygen at all
No Sherpas above BC
1982 NZ Himalayan Expedition