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Kangchenjunga N Wall 1985

Kangchenjunga · 1985 · 봄 (1) · USA

원정 개요

BC at Pangpema
ABC.1 on Kangchenjunga Glacier at base of North Face
ABC.2 on moraine debris at side of glacier
C1 at middle of high glacier above icefall, on left side of base of North Face
C2 at North Col
C3 at base of a cliff.

On face at C2 the technical difficulties occurred: steep rock and ice with some rockfall; also avalanching elsewhere.

Well to Col was 27 pitches of fixed rope on ice - very demanding hard work to climb. Last few days of the climb the winds reversed and came from Sikkim but then shifted back again. Very little snow on mountain till last week when snow collected. Mountain was avalanching all the time but didn't threaten this expedition, but ice avalanche came came close once and could hear rockfall.

15 May Crown got cerebral edema. Actually no one acclimatized well: "the bodies not adjusting themselves."

Did not see Chris Chandler's body; probably carried down by avalanches.


Shrestha, Tourism - 24 May 85

Kangchenjunga from Skreslet to Ministry of Tourism:

"As of 15 May we evacuated the mountain having reached a high point of 25,500-26,000 ft on 13 May attempting to establish C4, failing to reach that camp, equipment was stashed at halfway point and the 2 members, John Roskelley and Kim Momb, came down off high ridge to C2.

Same day Laurie Skreslet and Gregg Cronn advanced to C3 in preparation for summit bid. After 2 days in C3 on morning of 2nd summit bid, Gregg Cronn was stricken with cerebral edema on 15 May and had to be evacuated of the mountain. He was helped down from 24,500 ft to 16,000 ft at BC and eventually recovered.

From April 22nd it took approximately a week to stock pile C2 before pushing up the ridge from this North Col to the site of C3 at the base of the great serac slope.

Then after stock piling C3 waiting for the weather to abate before fixing rope to the top of the cliff to the great serac slope and eventually setting out for C4. That took up to May 15. "The main reason for quitting the mountain was bad weather."


  • 내부 원정 ID167
  • 원본 EXPIDKANG85101
  • 대장John Roskelley
  • 루트 (Route)N Ridge-N Face
  • 최고 도달고도7900m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 6명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
John Fenton Charles RoskelleyUSALeader---
Jeffrey Clement DuenwaldUSADeputy Leader---
Gregg CronnUSAClimber-사용-
Robin MacDonald HoustonUSAExp Doctor---
Kim A. MombUSAClimber---
Laurie SkresletCanadaClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Duenwald, Jeff · 1985 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1985 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198621400/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-North-Face-Attempt · 1985 · 웹사이트 (5) ·