원정 개요

On 3 May we set up our tents beside the camp of the Japanese Siniolchu expedition and reached Green Lake our base camp 4900m the next day. From 5 to 12 May we were up C1 and C2 on the Nepal Gap glacier. The weather was changeable (sunny in the afternoon and once we had rain in the BC). Meanwhile our expedition doctor came up and went to C1. We tried to set up another camp on the Nepal Peak South Ridge but we failed because of a dangerous crumbling ridge where we found fixed ropes of an earlier expedition. During the next try in the right flank another member of the team got ill and had to be brought back to the BC.

We had only a short time left so Roman Dirnboeck, a mountain guide, tried to reach the Nepal Peak from C2 and he did it.

[Roman Dirnboeck]:
On 17 May at 30 minutes past midnight the weather isn't that good, but I have to get out of my sleeping bag. I get into my clothes and have breakfast. At 1:15 am I leave the camp and go straight to the South Ridge of Nepal Peak. Most of the time I needed no headlight because of the full moon. The march is very hard sometimes I sink in the snow till the hips. By 3:10 am I reached the ridge (6300m) which looks like the roof of a church. At 6450m I leave part of my material back (one rope, empty bottles, a head lamp and my ice axe).

By 4 am the sun is rising. In the west I can see Everest and Makalu. I take a short rest for eating and drinking. Looking up I can see a 200m high ridge with big snow cornices which reaches the steep slope. From there's a ridge leading to the highest point. On top slope I leave back my rucksack and take my sticks, my bottle and my camera with me. At 7000m before I reach the ridge of the top, I avoid a rock zone.

12:45 pm sees me on the top. I take out my flag and take some photos. The weather is getting bad. After a short break I start my way down. Suddenly an immense crevasse blocks my way down. First I throw down my materials. In course of this the rucksack fell down the southeast face with all the material and the important photos which I had taken from the summit of mountain. Tired and wet I reach C2 at 4 pm where I get tea and hot soup.

Had planned to continue climbing northward on southwest ridge, scale main summit and go on to scale Tent Peak, but made no attempt to go beyond South Summit of Nepal Peak because of lack of time.