원정 개요

BC at normal site for Lhotse South Face, west side of Lhotse Glacier.

"Decided quickly was too tired. I look at face very well but I was too tired." To Lukla by helicopter, Namche very quickly, tired, slowly to BC. "Too tired and too much for more to climb this face, I need long time to recuperate." Also heard icefall not being kept open by Belgian's Sherpas as expected but more important I was too tired." Face not dangerous at this time; icefall all the time but it is possible to climb the face: same rock fell part of Yugoslavian route and Polish ice falling but French (Vincent Fine) route nothing: I think this is best way to climb the face; not dangerous but was too much snow on the rock above 7200m to about 8000m. Went very little above BC: on 25th Oct climbed in easy snow to about 6000m (very easy to 6800m) on face. Stayed at BC making film and left BC 29th Oct. Batard went directly from Everest to France, where had very busy 2 weeks, and back to Nepal for Lhotse. Would like try face at end of aut or early Dec in few years if no one else succeeds.

Maurice Uguen at BC and 100m above, journalist but not climber; dramatized avalanching.


Batard's friend Maurice Uguen - 2 Nov 88

Weather difficult - lot of snow avalanche, stone avalanche, seracs on route, lot of wind. Climbed just to see best route on face but only recce. Waited at BC one week and weather not favorable. Did not climb on face.

Left BC 29 or 30 Oct. Batard returns KTM 16 and Nov and joins his members at Ama Dablam BC after there acclimatization on Kalapattar.