원정 개요

C4 at North Col
C5 on North Ridge where rocks protected from avalanche
C6 on North Face just below Yellow Band
High point on North Ridge.

Long period of heavy snow fall; 2m of snow on upper ridge: 2 hrs to go 20m at 8350m 150m below of 1st step; after C5 again snowfall and again reached 30 and 31 July and 6th Aug and 13th Aug. Reached 8150m on 14th but no higher because deep snow and down to C4. 17th Aug again to C4 and on 28th reached C6 site but did not sleep there. Slept C5 and right down to ABC while other group to C5 19th (but not sleep there) and down to ABC 21st. 25th again C5, 26th C6 and 27th 3:00 am start up and reached ridge 5:30 am, 2 hrs 20 minutes swimming: too much snow.

This route from C5 slightly different from classical route, but probably followed by 1988 in national team; more direct from C5 to 1st Step.