원정 개요

BC at normal site (where Japanese had camp in autumn)
C1 near Naike Col
C4 on plateau.

When came to BC, 80 cm snow and had to wait at Samagaon extra day for more porters who would carry all the way to BC. When going to C1, had to make deposit and reached camp on 2nd day. Above C2 no fresh snow; hard snow and easy to move with crampons. Easy to go to C3 with no strong winds and easy snow condition. 7th reached plateau at 7500m and pitched 2 tents but very strong wind at plateau and very cold; 3 members got very cold during bad night. Planned to start for top on 9th at 6:00 am but wind and cold delayed them by one hour. All 10 climbing members set out for top but Mikhailov and Grekov turned back at 7700m (Mikhailov sick from bad night). Summiters unroped and Moiseev stayed on top 1 hr 40 mins waiting for last man Mouravev to arrive at 12:40. All left top at 1:00 pm. No wind but very cold. At 2:10 pm all in C4, very fast with no wind and excellent snow. 3:00 pm left C4 and Boukreev in C3 at 4:15 pm and all slept in C3. All in BC 9th at 7:30 pm. Very easy route and had no avalanching. Good weather till 9th, then snow and bad weather on 12th when left BC. Fixed 300m on moraine before BC for porters.