원정 개요

The 12-man Chilean party, led by Gaston Oyarzun, failed in the siege on the NE Ridge in spring. The party was the second Himalayan expedition organized by Chilean Mtng Federation after the successful Gasherbrum II party in 1979. Oyarzun led that party and reached the top by himself.

BC (5150m) on Rongbuk Glacier was made on March 23 and via East Rongbuk Glacier, C1 (5500m), C2 (6100m) and C3 (6500m) were made. Ropes were fixed on North Col for 500m, and C4 (7007m) on the col was made. Much snow and bad weather disturbed the progress. C5 (7600m) and C6 (8000m), were made along the classic route on NE Ridge and the final C7 (8300m) was made May 17. Claudio Lucero, Ivan Vigouroux, Dagoberto Pena and leader Oyarzun intended to push from C7 next day, but they were forced to be in the tent for three more nights. They used up the oxygen, and Oyarzun suffered pulmonary edema and Lucero took over the leadership. On 21st they descended 100m and found the remain of Chinese 1975 party's tent. A cylinder there saved their lives. They narrowly returned to BC without accident.


Galen Rowell, by phone in California - 26 June 83

Chilians were on Everest via N Col route in Spring 1983 (Rowell was on W Ridge from N at same time and they met).

Reached 26,000+ ft (7900m) with little equipment and in a storm which they had to wait out. All survived but one [Oyarzun] got ill and retreat was only possibility.