원정 개요

Cholatse E Ridge looked too difficult and Tawoche was right there so went for Tawoche first. Went up NE Ridge of Tawoche after 1 week of snow which spent at BC. Carling and Gregory started up 22nd and found it very steep knife-edge ice, ice towers and seracs; hard ice one side, snow and ice other and this avalanched. Needed more personnel or may be ability. Got only to 19,000 ft on this ridge on 22nd. Again snow and all off the mountain and Gregory got pulmonary edema.

24th April Dark, Naylor and Wintrip started to Col for Cholatse bid. 25th started up SE Ridge on Swiss route and fixed rope 270m in technical climbing up rock towers in steps. When to 20,400 ft on 26th and here huge rock tower, retreated to Col where Carling had arrived. 27th Carling and Dark back up and on 28th to 20,400 ft to decide how or whether further progress and 2 snow avalanches came off ridge. These avalanches convinced them to abandon climb and went back down to BC. 2 went back up to clear ropes on 30th.


Sharma, Tourism - 8 May 83

Cholatse and Tawoche:

[Left BC] 29 April because bad weather.

Taboche by NW Ridge and put camp on col between Tawoche NW Ridge and Cholatse SE Ridge. 1 week later same members started up NW Ridge but had to return due to poor snow and avalanche conditions and deteriorating weather. Decided ridge too long and difficulties too continues for expedition our size. We do not have personal or equipment necessary to safely attempt the route.

We have abandoned attempt on this route and turned attention to our 2nd objective, Cholatse SE Ridge. Already having camp at base of this ridge so want SE Ridge instead of E Ridge.