원정 개요

High point at Great Couloir.

Italian-Czech Spring 1991 route followed after Anderson & Winkleman had made acclimatization climb on Changzheng. Four times tried for summit, reached 7600-7800m, slept there. Bad weather (lot of new snow, 1m deep) & down three times & last time reached 8000m in Great Couloir & slept there 3 nights. Stopped there because was 4:00 pm, had been climbing 11 hrs, snow waist-deep & were tired. Snowed every night but plan was to climb during night from 8000m (did not want to make another camp) so as to reach technical problems of yellow band at first light & have all day to summit & return to 8000m. 5th Sept tried to go up but got only perhaps 20m higher in blizzard & deep snow & avalanching. Felt "very insecure" [when] it's only 2 climbers.

Anderson got 7800m on 21st July alone.

Next by all 3 members to 7600m on 10 Aug; Winkleman left for work soon afterwards.

Other 2 attempts by Anderson & Bearzi.