원정 개요

BC at Ama Dablam Glacier (same as Swiss autumn 1983)
C1 at Swiss C1 site
Swiss C2 site
Swiss C3 site.

1st 3-4 days spent working upwards to carry loads and acclimatize and then stayed in BC 1 day. 16 April started up the mountain: all climbing members (not doctor). Followed route marked on postcard. Moved up slowly because were making film but each day moved up, taking 2 tents with them as they went. On 22 April made biv 200m below summit and next morning to top (could have reached top on 22nd but stopped at noon to have good filming light for final summit push). 23rd on top and down to 6400m. 24th Ferrari and Lambardini to BC while other stayed on ridge to finish film and returned to BC on 25th.

Difficult rock climbing: no snow, rock was loose and dangerous but no one hurt. Difficult up to about 5800m, higher up the difficulty was to find right route at snow tower.