원정 개요

C1 at North Col
High point on North Ridge.

21 Aug again at N Col, 22nd 7500m & stopped because of avalanches, left cache at 7500m. Snow deep but not serious enough to stop progress. Down to BC to rest. 25th to ABC, 27th to N Col & found snow and windslab avalanche conditions too dangerous & back to ABC. 3 Sept 30m below N Col, 3 men caught in "huge" slab avalanche which fell from top of col to bottom; started by Breashears, Jangbu not really in it but Breashears & Wangchu caught by someone else's fixed rope - they were clipped into & lives saved by this rope. These conditions prevelent up high - rope was anchored to ice below col; snow was deep above col. Had to be home by 18th Sept & avalanche made Breashears realize how mortal he was. Monsoon broke 9th Sept.