원정 개요

BC at Pangpema normal site of Kangchenjunga North Face expedition
C1 on glacier between Cross Peak and Gimmigela peaks
C2 on plateau of glacier between Cross and Gimmigela peaks
C3 on Gimmigela West Ridge
C4 on West Ridge (used only search beyond summit for Japanese who died on east
side in 1993 attempt from Sikkimese side).

This team completed route attempted by 1963 Japanese who reached this group's C3 area (their C4 was there). Fixed ropes on 14th with pitons on rocky face between Cross Peak and Gimmigela, up Gimmigela's north side near North Ridge to West Ridge. Most difficult part was C3 and above due to strong wind. Roped C1 to C2: very unstable rock (ropes had to be replaced/checked every day) with much rock fall. From C2 to C3 fixed 17 pitches up somewhat steep slope and from C3 to top up final snow ridge 31 pitches. Technically none of route difficult. After summit reached, C4 pitched on 16th and 3 Japnese summiters stayed there at 7200m to search for body of Japanese who died in 1993 in attempt from (Sikkimese) Indian side. These 3 in C4 used oxygen sleeping in C4; on 17th went small distance towards Gimmigela East, but weather changed and couldn't reach accident site in strong wind and 17th night one stay in C4 while others down & 3 Japanese 17th summiters slept in C4. 18th strong wind and search abandoned.

Team had 11 Japanese members because many from their club wanted to come to this mountain because of 1963 failed attempt and loss of member in 1993. Can be successfully climbed by smaller expedition.