원정 개요

Martini slept twice at spots below permanent C2 while making route in deep snow. 13th Sept slept at 6800m; later a bit higher; finally camps made 3 Oct; took many days because of heavy snowfall in 2nd half of Sept. 5th Oct made attempt for summit with Loretan, Troillet, Chamoux, Royer and 3 French Sherpas. Martini reached 8200m, slightly below W Col, waiting for Loretan to find that a route from col itself was not possible because of wind and difficult big rock pillar and to retreat. Waited half hour, Loretan did not come back (Chamoux arrived and reported one Sherpa fell and others gone down and Royer 5m below Chamoux - French followed Swiss track) and Martini decided first to try couloir before col, went up 20m and found too dangerous snow on rock and then went down on very cold day and returned to C3. Waited there for Swiss who returned to C3 at 5:00 pm and reported met 2 French at start of Ridge above Col and was sure French reached summit; Swiss and Martini slept C2 thinking to try for top on 7th Oct via C3, but 6th morning Pelle radioed Chamoux in trouble but did not ask Martini to help (Pelle Sherpas refused to help Chamoux since he did nothing about his fallen Sherpa).

Afternoon of 6th seeing that Chamoux had a problem, Martini's friends at BC ask him to come down and he could not recover from 5th summit bid at C2 so he went down to BC at 9:00 pm - very tired. Rested at BC (many telephone calls with Italy). Martini had been climbing alone mostly. Now 12th Oct Blanc and Martini go together to his C2 at 7200m. 13th to C3 and 14th summit via Loretan's route (partly in order to see bodies of Chamoux and Royer). Left C3 at 3 am and on summit before 9 am and returned to C2 at 1 pm after bringing down C3 gear started snowing while descending from Col. Saw many footprints near col (snow hindered by wind) rest biv place in snow and torch and items of Royer/Chamoux). Returned to BC 15th.

10th Oct Favre and Mochet up from BC, reached c8000m on 12th and then down BC same day.