원정 개요

BC at 1/2 hour below all other teams BC at site of 1960's
Biv above icefall
C1 at NE Col
C2 on NE Ridge - tent moved to C3
High point at North Face 50m below summit.

Stayed several days on way to BC and below French Col of 5150m in Hidden Valley and in 8 days climbed 7 peaks: Sita Chuchura (22-3 Sept via N Face to E Ridge); Tongu Peak (18th Sept or it's S Summit - maps not clear). Hongde (16th Sept via SE Face).

12th Oct left at C3 at 7:30-8:00 am, soon Belarussian woman Irina Vialenkova closely following him with poor equipment and no technique (bumping her head against his crampons and thus endangering his life). Vos very strong but felt responsible for her and had to turn back because she very slow ascent: they would have reached top at 6:00 pm and she had no headlamp; Vos turned back at 16:30 while she went on up 10m, then down. He was back in C3 at 17:30+. She said couldn't find end of fixed ropes and probably did biv at 7700m. Hoped to go again to top, but got sick on 13th and down to C1 14th, where food and other items stolen, and to BC 15th.

Vos doubted that woman reached the top.


Milja De Zwart - July 19, 2000

A Dutch newspaper published an interview with Irina Vialenkova. She's the Russian climber, from Minsk who spent a night outside, high on the Dhaulagiri in 1995. She lost both feet, up to the ankles. Bart Vos was with her in 1995. He didn't reach the top, and when he came home, he blamed Irina for it. He said this mad woman followed him, hoping like a rabbit in his trail and stated she had no experience at all. Irina now claimed Bart Vos slow, she should have passed him, but she didn't, so she reached summit too late (that is, if she ever reached it, she lost her photo's on the way down). It was just Irina Vialenkova's story versus Bart Vos's, but the result is most people lost their faith in Vos.