원정 개요

25th Sept to BC and rest 3 days. 29th up to C1; 4 members to C3 and again all in BC. 7th Oct start summit push from BC 4 members to C1. Boukreev 7th 6:30 from BC, 9:30 in C1, 8th Oct 5 pm. He comes down through C2 where same 4 members already arrived; he said he reached top at 12:10 pm and Bulgarian already in C3; Ratchev stopped in C3 while Boukreev in BC at 8:00-9:00 pm.

4 members 9th Oct into C3 and 10th stayed C3 in strong winds. 11th wind not so strong so 8 am 2 members up and 8:30 am other 2 members also start up; 2 pm and 3:30 pm they on top; 6:30 pm in BC to sleep; when going up, these 4 members met Tontchev in his descent.

12th Shinkarenko summited with leader of Bulgarian leader Dimitrov at 2 pm.

24 Oct Boukreev's ascent: 7 Oct - left BC 6:30 pm (used Japanese fixed rope very little). Arrived C1 9:30 pm, C2 11:30 pm. Strong cold winds. 8th Oct left C2 2:00 am. Arrived C3 5:30 am, arrived summit 11:30 am. 8th Oct arrive C3? arrive C2 5:00 pm, arrive C1 c6:00 pm, arrive BC 7:30 pm.

31 Oct 95 - Dutch soloist, Bart Vos, said of Boukreev: "The Russian [Kazakh] moved with his crampons like he was born with them on his feet...he used his crampons so easily, so smoothly."


Gia Tortladze - 23 May 2005

I met Gia Tortladze today and asked him about Dhaulagiri in 1995 as I had heard rumors that some Russians were questioning his ascent of Dhaulagiri. He was puzzled about Russians raising summit questions since there were no Russians there. After we got past that, he was sure he went to the highest summit since there was nothing higher to be seen, but ... he knew nothing about a false summit. He drew a rough sketch of the north side and northeast ridge, and showed that he had gone up the north face and gotten to the ridge at about 8050m, then followed the ridge from there to the top without having made a traverse out onto the face.

I think this one should perhaps be marked as disputed. I am meeting some climbers back from Dhaulagiri soon, and I'll ask whether Tortladze might have gotten on the ridge high enough so as not to have needed to make a traverse.


2005 Italian Dhaulagiri team - May 2005

I have met the Italians from Dhaulagiri I and they reported that their high point was the false summit at 8120m. So if this altitude is correct, Tortladze did not get onto the ridge above it (he gave his altitude at the ridge as 8050m).


Boris Dimitrov - 1 June 2005

Dimitrov states that Shinkarenko did not reach the summit on 12 Oct 1995 (see route notes from Dimitrov's expedition DHA1-953-07).