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Grenoble Makalu II Expedition

Makalu II · 1985 · 봄 (1) · France

원정 개요

BC on 5400m dip on ridge above (N) of meeting of Barun and Chago Glacier
C1 at 5800m beginning of Chago Glacier (e of "a" in Chago or Schneider map
C2A at 6250m on Chago Glacier at "r" (very exposed)
C2B at 6900m base of couloir below (E of) Makalu La
C4 at 7400m at Makalu La (1 tent only, 2 nights only).

On summit day went from La over the "back" (east side) of summit ridge at about 7620m and to true summit on a ridge of "lots of ups and down" in strong wind. On 22 April Sevenier tried his own summit bid and got to 7550m on 22nd and wind on 23rd. Normal route except for deviation at couloir below Makalu La.

Not difficult. Good snow conditions. Altitude acclimatization only problems.

Makalu II:

3 members to top:
Porret
Jessup
De Montgolfier
at 12:45 pm on 22 April. Spent 10 mins there and returned to BC evening 24 April.

23 April Porret and Sevenier and tried to go to top but turned back at 7500m because of wind.

  • 내부 원정 ID162
  • 원본 EXPIDMAK285101
  • 대장Richard Jessup
  • 루트 (Route)W Face-S Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도7678m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 5명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Richard JessupFranceLeader성공--
Pierre-Yves BlervaqueFranceExp Doctor---
Pierre De MontgolfierFranceClimber성공--
Jean-Francois PorretFranceClimber성공--
Guy SevenierFranceClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth · 1985 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198621901/Asia-Nepal-Kangchungtse-Makalu-II · 1985 · 웹사이트 (5) ·