원정 개요

BC near one of many small lakes at "7" of point 5327m southeast of Pumori
C1 on SE Face in crevasse by all 4 members.

Difficulties: To reach Col and on ridge above Col which very sharp smooth.

27 April put ropes to 6200m and then stayed in BC with daily snowfall. On 26th tried but snowing and no visability. Probably followed South Korean route (found their fixed ropes). 4 May tried one way through crevasses and seracs and fixed 90m rope and down to BC. 8 May again up but only 3 members to summit push (not Solans Martinez because very dangerous above C1). Above C1 very steep hard ice requiring lot of ice pitons and rope so shifted route to right side of SE Face and via a col. 12 hours climb from C1 to top, 6 hours from col at about 6500m. Germans 1962 also went to this col. Biv 6600m (above Col) on 9 May in ice cave 9 hours. 10 May cleared C1 and reached BC.

Not a truly new route, but same varieties of earlier routes probably.


Banskota, Tourism - 14 May 85

Rodes, Jaume Matas Grau and Joan Alarecon summit from SE Face 4:00 pm 9 May - cloudy, stayed 2 hours, flags of Nepal, Catalonese and Gracia and took photos. Started from C1 4:00 am, bived at 6600m and C1 at 8:00 am 10 May and arrived BC same afternoon. Woman member reached 6400m. Leave BC 14 May.