원정 개요

BC below and south of Dzangka
Biv 1 on North Face
Biv 2 on North Face in ice flutes 70 degrees.

From BC reached first snow slopes in 2 hours. No fixed camps but spent 3 nights in uncomfortable bivouac. Fixed 600m rope near start of climb to 5600m & put 1st biv at 5900m. Hard to put tent at 1st biv because hard ice or rock below snow; from here went up next day only to 6150m because had late morning start. 25th 2 members fixed one pitch only (80m) of mixed climbing while other three members rested. 26th started for top: last wall didn't climb but traversed over to NW Ridge from 6200m point on face & all 5 members on summit at 1 pm & returned to biv at 6:15 pm to sleep. 27th rapelled entire face & back to BC. Was safe route with no seracs or rock fall but about 8:00 am sun hits mushroom which let off small avalanches only. Clear weather without wind.