원정 개요

C1 was assault camp from which tried alpine-style ascent; just dry walk to C1. Took 4 days food on 3rd Dec (all 3 members and Pema Dorje) to C1. 4th all 4 up to C2 site of other expedition on ridge and bived at Yellow Tower at 20,000 ft after lot of horizontal climbing on rock. 5th all 4 set out to climb 2nd tower to get serac plateau, but in winter short day realized couldn't get to plateau, no campsite short of it (moving too slowly because Pema Dorje not competent enough), so returned to C2 and 6th to BC.

Went to Pheriche for fixed rope to put in above C2 and on 13th 3 foreigners to C1; that evening snowed. 15th 3 men to C2 with rope quickly. 15th fixed rope to 21,000 ft to beginning of knife-edge ridge and thus short of C3 site, so down to C2 intending to summit on 18th but wind got worse and after 3 nights in C2 running out of food and big clouds coming in, so down to BC on 19th. Winds blowing chunks of rock, it was so strong.