원정 개요

ABC near lake
C1 at Tilman's Col East
C2 on West Ridge
High point on West Ridge.

Chose route because seldom used and gave sunny BC. Stopped at 6250m because snow slabs on south side and cornices on north side and ridge itself so sharp that impossible to move on it crest and both sides slopes 55 degrees. High point reached on 25 Oct by Muir and Newman and their judgement not to continue was taken as decision to abandon climb. Fixed rope at 5700-5800m steep sections of lower ridge. Challenging technical climb especially with snow conditions as they were.

Left from BC via Tempathang from Panch Pokhari for variety and Tempathang was nearest village where could get chickens and other food.