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American Dhaulagiri Expedition

Dhaulagiri I · 1985 · 봄 (1) · USA

원정 개요

Dump at 3660m at site of Czech 1984 Autumn BC
(porters refused to go further than 1/2 day north of Pucham)
BC at 4600m below N Face (site of 1982 Japanese Pear route BC)
C1 at 5200m at Japanese 1982 C1
C2 at 6100m at icefall directly up from C1
C3 at 6600m directly below Japanese C3, in crevasse at bottom of "Pear"
High point halfway up Pear.

Have no fixed rope but have enough tents for couple of camps if necessary. May acclimatize at an NE Ridge before climb. Problems: weather and avalanche route via Pear would have been climbed a lot.

Stopped at 7000m because of terrible snow conditions: of 35 days at BC, it snowed 34 days. Two distinct weather patterns between Myagdi Khola system and Kali Gandaki weather system. At 7000m snow thigh deep, not avalanching but not consolidating or being blown off. Icefall was in very bad condition (which Messner had to go through but Americans not). By 24 April people had colds and intestinal "burge" so next few days and spent rest up and discussing and watching bad weather and trying to work up a new head of steam. Left BC 10 May.

No accidents except Pletcher's accident at Berie when he fell. He returned to BC 1 April, wasn't even limping when he walked into BC and started right in humping loads from dump to proper BC.

  • 내부 원정 ID159
  • 원본 EXPIDDHA185101
  • 대장Robert Harwood
  • 루트 (Route)N Face (Pear rte)
  • 최고 도달고도7000m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)

참가자 7명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Robert M. HarwoodUSALeader---
Todd Douglas BiblerUSAClimber---
Catherine M. FreerUSAClimber---
Julie HesseUSASupport Member---
Mark Bernard HesseUSAClimber---
Delmer F. (Del) PletcherUSAExp Doctor/Climber---
Johanna PletcherUSASupport Member---

출처·참고문헌

Harwood, Robert · 1985 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198624701/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-North-Face-Pear-Route-Attempt · 1985 · 웹사이트 (5) ·