원정 개요

BC at Dzosampa
C1 at Nangpa Glacier near "g" on Schneider map
C2 same as Catalans C2
C3 same as Catalans C3
C4 same as Catalans C4.

Final face from large snowfall NW of summit will be difficult.

Said their route from Nangpa Glacier was same as Messner's (that they did not cross Nangpa La) but they laughed as they said this, and C1 on Gyabrag Glacier near "U" on Schneider map suggests otherwise [Poles including one summiter said 5 June 85 Basques crossed Nangpa La as they did themselves].

Alberdi Gainzarain and Martinez left expedition 15 May because wives coming; did not know summit results.


Banskota, Tourism - 24 May 85

3 members success from S Face at 12:00 hours on 17 May: Felipe Uriarte (1944, mountain guide, Gipuzkoa), Xabier Garayoa and Atxo Apellaniz (1953, marine employee, Vitoria). Found metal flag on top left by Chinese.

15 May summiters were:
Miguel Apodaca (1956, administration, Vitoria)
Inaki Querejeta Koskorrotz (1956, mechanic, Vitoria)
Juan Jose Amezgarai (1945, patternist, Vitoria)


Banskota, Tourism - 19 May 85

Cho Oyu SW Face:

4 members summit 15 May.
Next bid planned 17 May by 3 members - no names.
C4 7400m 14 May
C3 7050m 13 May
C1 5700m 9 May

Weather fine.


Details of the climbing by Leader Garayoa

From C4 the members of the first group Juan Oiarazabal, Juanjo Amezgarai, Miquel and Inaki summited on the top of 8201m high Cho Oyu mountain on 15th May 1985. The time was at 1:15 pm of summit without oxygen form the route of SS Cho Oyu. They started from C4 at 4 in the morning the same day at 6:00 am. The 1 group stayed at the summit for 1 hour.

They took some photograph. Hoisted Nepalese and Basque flag on the top. They found Chinese-like Tibetan metalic flag at the summit. It was 1.50 mts high, different colors of seven starts on it. They were very happy. But it was too cold. It was clear all around but wind. They saw mountain Everest from the top and took photography of mtn.

The second group including three members leader Xabier, Felipe and Atxo from the C4. Started early in the morning of 17th May at 6:00 am to the summit, from the SW Ridge of Cho Oyu. They reached on the top of Cho Oyu at 12:00 pm. They stayed 45 minutes on the top. They took photograph from there around. They saw from there Mount Everest, Lhotse, Tibet and took photography also. The weather was very good but very cold. The wind was normal. They also saw the Chinese and Tibetan flag. They put the Basque and Nepalese flag there and took picture of it.

In this team the team leader had put one electrocardiogram matching on his body and heart, which reflected all his feeling and condition of heart of every second. It was recorded in a ultra-modern heart tape recorder (as a part of medical investigation which the team was doing in tbe BC camp, one Dr. Pepe and one nurse Maurice). The same time when expedition was going on.

When the team was at the BC, the aluminium tent was put for the medical purposes, the test began for the members who were climbing, after climbing the health condition of before and after of climbing. The findings of this investigation would take to publish for a year, the investigation will finish. When all the member would be in Spain and tested again for the last time.

Detail of Descending from the Summit:

The first and second groups descended the same day they summited. Had on the top to C4 on 15th May and 17th May respectively. Next day the group to the C1 on 16th May and 18th May respectively. The first group came to the BC on 17th of May and second group came to the BC on 19th of May.

The expedition team returned from BC to KTM on 22nd of May with 23 porters. The group divided in Namche after 3 days into two because of cargo. 9 members liaison officer and mailrunner fly from Lukla to KTM on 25 of May and two members including team leader and kitchen boy and cook came from the previous caravan route of Lukla-Jiri walking with 23 porters and by bus from Jiri to KTM.

When we left the summit we took back all of our ropes, tent from each camp, we satisfied there is nothing leaving on the mountain. In the BC, also according to the instruction of liaison officer and team leader all rusted things were burnt, all plastic and other garbage were buried near the base camp. All round the BC was cleared.


Banskota, Tourism - 24 May 85

3 members success from SW Face at 12:00 hours on 17th May (Felippe Uriarte, Xabier Garayoa and Atxo); found metal flag on top left by Chinese.