원정 개요

BC at same place as Makalu II team
C1 at middle of Chago Glacier east of point 6350m
C2 just below Makalu La
Biv at Makalu La
C5 on ice on Makalu North Face
High point on NW Ridge.

No fixed camps and no fixed ropes. How many bivouacs don't know: depends on snow, etc. Most difficult parts: just Makalu La and last 300m gully to summit. 3 weeks for acclimitization and then summit push if weather permits.

After C2, down to BC then up with bivouacs only above C2. Started up 20 April and reached La on 23 April but turned back with wind; again to BC. 27 April again up. 29 April to Makalu La, 30 April slept at 7700m, 1 May to 8000m where no snow, only rock and ice on N Face. 2 May up only 100m but wind turned them back to C2 and 3 May BC.

Then Beaud left climb with 2 frostbitten fingers. 2 Barrards started for top 6 May despite strong winds daily after 27 April at La. 9th May to 8000m biv. 10 May start for top from 8000m at 7:30 am in snowfall but wind blocked by ridge and not problem on N Face. 6:00 pm reached "ridge summit," but not possible to stand up on ridge, so stopped just short of main summit. Back to 8000m at 8:00 pm. 11th May like to reach top but again wind and reached about same altitude so biv 8000m and down to BC 13 May.

Route was direct to Makalu La up couloir. Had almost no fixed rope and no fixed camps above 6800m. Last part of climb difficult seracs, icefall and very hard ice.

Skiing not possible - no snow, completely day rock and ice.


Shrestha, Tourism - 23 May 85

2 bivs above C2 at 7400m and 8000m.

1st attempt 2 May, two Barrards and Beaud reached 8100m and back to C2 because wind and exhaustion and 3 May BC.

2nd attempt 6 May two Barrards left BC. 7 May to C2. 8th May biv 7400m. 9 May biv 8000m. 10 May started at 7:30 am for top and reached 30-35m below top any ridge at 6:00 pm. Wind very very strong, so turned back after 10 minutes and return to biv.