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Hans Eitel

Manaslu · 1984 · 봄 (1) · W Germany

원정 개요

BC at usual site where there is grass and lots of water.

Loretan and Ruedi down to BC on 18th April because of strong winds. 27th April started up again C2 28th April. 29th C4 and top on 30th. Burgener and Joos in C4 with summiters but tired and did not go up from C4 but wanted to try for top on 1 May. Loretan went to C3 on 30th but Ruedi lost crampon and stayed in C4 on 1st but could walk Ok and reached BC on 3rd May with Eitel and Co. who came up to see where and how he is. Joos has stayed on to make summit bid with Group II. Very strong windstorm and very cold at summit on 30 April.


Prachanda Shrestha, Ministry of Tourism - 6 May 84

30 April summit 14:00 hours

1. Erhard Loretan (1959, Swiss motn guide, Mont Salvens)
2. Marcel Ruedi (1938, Swiss butcher, Winterthur) stayed on top 5-10 minutes
weather cloudy with strong wind at top
health good

29 April - Loretan and Marcel plus 2 other members, Norbert Joos (1968, Swiss mtn guide) and Werner Burgener (1958, Swiss forester, Luetschental) reached C4 (altitude not given).

1 May while descending from C4 Burgener lost his way, so on 2 May Hans Eitel, Peter Matthias and Sirdar Ang Chopal Sherpa ascended from C2 at 6200m to rescue Werner and found him in semi-conscious state in C4 tent. 3 May the 4 men brought Werner to BC safely and his health condition satisfactory on 4 May.

Not mentioned whether more will attempt summit.

  • 내부 원정 ID1568
  • 원본 EXPIDMANA84102
  • 대장Hans Eitel
  • 루트 (Route)NE Face
  • 최고 도달고도8163m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 7명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Hans Volker EitelW GermanyLeader---
Werner BurgenerSwitzerlandClimber---
Norbert JoosSwitzerlandClimber---
Erhard LoretanSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Peter MatthiasW GermanyClimber---
Marcel RuediSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Vinzenz UllmannSwitzerlandExp Doctor---

출처·참고문헌

Loretan, Erhard · 1984 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1984 · 잡지 (3) · MM
Erhard Loretan, Les 8000 RugissantsAmmann, Jean & Loretan, Erhard · 1984 · 단행본 (1) ·
Erhard Loretan, Den Bergen VerfallenAmmann, Jean & Loretan, Erhard · 1984 · 단행본 (1) ·
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198527902/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-Northeast-Face-Normal-Route · 1984 · 웹사이트 (5) ·